{"id":10698,"date":"2019-03-12T11:32:38","date_gmt":"2019-03-12T15:32:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ncseagrant.ncsu.edu\/coastwatch\/?page_id=10698"},"modified":"2019-03-15T17:28:52","modified_gmt":"2019-03-15T21:28:52","slug":"from-sea-to-table-to-you","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/ncseagrant.ncsu.edu\/coastwatch\/previous-issues\/2019-2\/spring-2019\/from-sea-to-table-to-you\/","title":{"rendered":"From Sea to Table to You"},"content":{"rendered":"

Farm-to-table has been having a moment \u2014\u00a0but now “sea-to-table” is, too. <\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"

For chefs Bill Hartley and James Clark of Postal Seafood Company, cooking local seafood like wild Swansboro clams \u201chas always been a way of doing things.\u201d Photo by Forest Mason.<\/p><\/div>\n

By Danielle Costantini<\/h3>\n

\u201cWhen I opened up Saltbox, I wasn\u2019t trying to be trendy,\u201d chef Ricky Moore says. A small walk-up counter, Saltbox Seafood Joint quickly became recognized as one of the top places to get fresh seafood in the Triangle.<\/p>\n

Now with two locations in Durham, the restaurant has gained local and national acclaim for its use of North Carolina seafood and traditional recipes. Growing up in New Bern, Moore was raised on local flavors that he brings to his customers.<\/p>\n

With the restaurant scene flourishing in the Raleigh\/Durham\/ Chapel Hill area \u2014 also known as the Triangle \u2014 more establishments are taking advantage of the bounty of seafood products from our coast.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Chef Chris Lopez at Postmaster has high standards for the food he serves, which is why he often uses local N.C. seafood in recipes like honeycomb oysters. Photos by Juli Leonard\/The News and Observer<\/em>.<\/p><\/div>\n

North Carolina boasts over 300 miles of oceanfront and thousands of miles of estuary shorelines, ready access to water flush with coastal resources like shrimp, crab, flounder and oysters.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt makes sense,\u201d says chef Matt Kelly of Saint James Seafood, in Durham. \u201cWe have this big, giant, beautiful coastline with pristine waters, and we have fishermen who need to sell fish.\u201d<\/p>\n

But at restaurants inland, finding North Carolina seafood can be difficult at times. To get fresh N.C. seafood to the Triangle \u201chas been very challenging logistically,\u201d Kelly says.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s often more cost-effective for N.C. restaurants to get their products from distributors who source seafood from outside the state. This has led many restaurants to carry non-native salmon or cod.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere are several barriers to getting North Carolina seafood to inland markets,\u201d explains Barry Nash, North Carolina Sea Grant\u2019s seafood technology and marketing specialist. According to Nash, varied factors\u2014 the lack of labor; harvest regulations restricting the supply of coastal products; low capacity to process local products into ready-to-cook products; and underdeveloped supply chains \u2014 have limited the amount of N.C. seafood available inland.<\/p>\n

The New Wave<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Yet, despite the obstacles, North Carolina seafood is becoming more common away from the coast. Inland restaurants featuring native seafood have not just been surviving, but thriving \u2014 catching the eyes of restaurant-goers and food critics alike.<\/p>\n

\u201cNational market research indicates people prefer locally grown or harvested foods over imports when given a choice,\u201d Nash says. In the Triangle, the increase in N.C. seafood may be related to the growing restaurant scene inspired by the area\u2019s rapid population growth, or by local chefs investing in their community. It could also be related to the farm-to- table movement and growth of local farmers markets.<\/p>\n

Regardless, the sea-to-table movement shined in the Raleigh News & Observer<\/em>\u2019s ranking of the best new restaurants of 2018. Ricky Moore of Saltbox Seafood Joint, Matt Kelly at Saint James Seafood, and chefs James Clark and Bill Hartley of Pittsboro\u2019s Postal Fish Company elevated their three seafood restaurants into the top-10 list. A fourth, Postmaster \u2014 with chef Chris Lopez at the helm \u2014 had drawn recognition previously for its use of \u201cmarket catch\u201d fish.<\/p>\n

The N&O <\/em>also named Saint James the best seafood restaurant in the Triangle and gave it an honorable mention for best restaurant overall for 2018.<\/p>\n

\"\"

The menu at Postal Fish Company changes frequently, so that fish like beeliner are available without delay. To ensure freshness, chef-owners James Clark and Bill Hartley use seafood only from North Carolina, South Carolina and Virginia. Photo by Juli Leonard\/The News and Observer<\/em>.<\/p><\/div>\n

For Clark, sea-to-table has \u201calways been a way of doing things.\u201d Postal Fish Company utilizes seafood from only North Carolina, South Carolina and Virginia. This choice is partially due to Clark\u2019s upbringing in Elizabeth City and his early-career experiences working with commercial fishermen in South Carolina. There, he learned the benefits of using seafood off the docks, particularly underutilized species.<\/p>\n

\u201cMy philosophy is to try and get the best quality fish as local as I can get it,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

At Saint James, Kelly takes a similar approach.<\/p>\n

\u201cAs a chef, you have conviction in your craft, and my goal is to give the freshest local ingredients while also focusing on the local economy,\u201d he says. His restaurant explores traditional and innovative seafood recipes. \u201cThe first thing I think of is not business. I think of creating something special to share with someone, to sell to someone, and it really starts there.\u201d<\/p>\n

Outside of strictly seafood-serving restaurants, others are taking advantage of North Carolina\u2019s coastal resources by featuring a \u201cfresh catch\u201d or \u201ccatch of the day\u201d option.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe take pride in sourcing locally whenever we can,\u201d says Lopez, the chef at Postmaster, which opened in 2017 in Cary. Postmaster\u2019s menu changes seasonally to maximize the elements of a dish the restaurant can source locally.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere are such great purveyors of local seafood that is it hard to want to get it from anywhere else,\u201d Lopez says. \u201cFor the sake of quality of product and being able to trace where it is coming from, it\u2019s the obvious choice.\u201d<\/p>\n

Bringing It Home<\/strong><\/h3>\n
\"\"

These Albemarle Sound fishermen catch blue crabs, establishing the first link in the supply chain for Locals Seafood, a prominent distributor serving the Triangle. Photo courtesy of Locals Seafood.<\/p><\/div>\n

Assisting these chefs in their mission are distributors like Locals Seafood.<\/p>\n

Owners Lin Peterson and Ryan Speckman first started selling shrimp out of a cooler on the side of the road. Now, their business has evolved into a multifaceted approach that brings seafood from the coast to the piedmont.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe supply chain is structured to move seafood up north to markets such as Boston, not towards the west \u2014 inland,\u201d says Brendon Greene, who works for the distributor. \u201cRestaurants in the Triangle look to us to bridge the gap between here and the coast.\u201d<\/p>\n

Locals boasts an impressive list of customers totaling over 50 restaurant clients, including Postmaster, Saltbox and Postal. By working directly with fishermen and fish houses and making three to four trips a week to the coast, the distributor regularly has fresh seafood available to sell to restaurants, grocery stores and the public.<\/p>\n

Forging and maintaining relationships with fishing communities and Triangle customers is vital. \u201cWe are always working with chefs and are in communication with them, because our product changes,\u201d Greene says. Weather, season and ocean conditions are all factors that could affect the daily or weekly catch.<\/p>\n

When interacting with customers at the farmers market and their new site that includes a restaurant at the Transfer Company Food Hall, Locals helps people understand their products make a difference. \u201cIt\u2019s constant education,\u201d Greene says. \u201cWe try to take something that these customers may not have seen before and compare it to something they are more accustomed to.\u201d<\/p>\n

Aside from local distributors, chefs also use personal connections to get the best products, which means working with fishermen who make their living hours away. \u201cChefs are out there making relationships with their farmers,\u201d says Postal Fish Company\u2019s Clark. \u201cThey should be out there making relation- ships with their fish farmers, too.\u201d<\/p>\n

Clark and business partner Hartley drive down to the coast as regularly as they can. There, the duo will meet with fishermen to see what they are bringing in. They also work closely with suppliers like Salty Catch, with commercial fisherman Steve Goodwin transporting his catch himself to Pittsboro.<\/p>\n

Name Recognition\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n
\"\"

Chef Ricky Moore of Saltbox Seafood Joint says feasting on local seafood ought to be an everyday occasion. Starting as a simple walk-up counter, Saltbox has recently expanded to a second, sit-down location. Photos by Baxter Miller.<\/p><\/div>\n

After getting the seafood to the Triangle, a second challenge arises. When customers see the names of North Carolina fish on the menu, they aren\u2019t always familiar with them. Many people prefer fish commonly found on menus like salmon, which aren\u2019t native to the N.C. coast.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019re just not a salmon or a cod place,\u201d Clark says. \u201cThey don\u2019t swim in our waters.\u201d<\/p>\n

Saint James\u2019s Kelly agrees. \u201cWhen you buy local fish, I can\u2019t always give you a standard cut of flounder.\u201d Grouper, triggerfish, sheepshead and cape shark are just a few of the species seasonally available on our coast. But put them on the menu, and some customers may be cautious.<\/p>\n

As Moore discovered at Saltbox, at first glance, people aren\u2019t always open to these fish. If consumers grow up eating a certain kind of fish \u2014 or no fish at all \u2014 trying something new can be difficult. \u201cThere\u2019s a level of cultural conditioning at play,\u201d he explains. \u201cI knew it would take time to inspire and influence people to try some different things.\u201d<\/p>\n

Moore, Lopez, Kelly and Clark all stress transparency, honesty and direct communication with their customers.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen we have a unique fish on the menu, we try to compare it to a commonly known fish, so people have a jumping-off point,\u201d Lopez says. This familiarity can help Postmaster customers \u201ccomfortably step out of their comfort zones.\u201d Sheepshead, for example, has a similar flavor profile to catfish or mahi-mahi, which all have a light to moderate flavor.<\/p>\n

Having wait staff who are familiar with the products also helps. \u201cThey have to go out there and sell it,\u201d Clark says. With this in mind, he trains his staff to be prepared to answer any questions that may come their way about the seafood they are serving.<\/p>\n

Saint James employs a similar strategy. \u201cOur staff is educated to explain to someone what the fish is and make the guest comfortable,\u201d Kelly says. \u201cWhen you have high quality and have done the time, you have trust. People come here to try something different.\u201d<\/p>\n

A slow and steady approach to building trust now allows Moore to offer lesser-known species of native fish on a daily basis.<\/p>\n

\u201cI have a standard menu, but also a \u2018try me\u2019 kind of dish, which is literally, \u2018Try this fish!\u2019\u201d he says. \u201cCustomers must trust you. If you are bringing them something out of their norms, they have to have trust.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"

This dish, served at Saint James Seafood in Durham, boasts a seafood medley. Photo by Casey Toth\/The News and Observer<\/em>.<\/p><\/div>\n

Lopez says Postmaster includes some nontraditional species and seasonally changes their menu. They create their recipes around the seafood that is available, using the flavor profile, size and texture of the fish. \u201cWith our customer base, we can put any fish on the menu, as long as it tastes good,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

But are appetites actually growing for local seafood?<\/p>\n

Despite the challenges North Carolina seafood may present, customers are buying what these chefs are selling. Other successful N.C. chefs \u2014 like Ashley Christensen, Vivian Howard and Jason Smith \u2014 have embraced using local products and seafood on their menu to great acclaim.<\/p>\n

Sea Grant\u2019s Nash also has seen hints of increased acceptance of local fish. \u201cConsumer research conducted by Sea Grant with cultured sturgeon, lionfish and cape shark indicates that people are hungry \u2014 some pun intended \u2014 for unfamiliar marine species,\u201d Nash says.<\/p>\n

For Moore\u2019s part, he wants to make eating North Carolina seafood as normal as possible.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s an everyday thing for these fishermen to get fish and provide this food,\u201d he says. \u201cI want to make this an everyday occasion to eat their food.\u201d<\/p>\n

This article was published in the Spring 2019\u00a0issue<\/a> of <\/em>Coastwatch. For reprint requests, click here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Farm-to-table has been having a moment \u2014\u00a0but now “sea-to-table” is, too. By Danielle Costantini \u201cWhen I opened up Saltbox, I wasn\u2019t trying to be trendy,\u201d chef Ricky Moore says. A small walk-up counter, Saltbox Seafood…<\/p>\n

Continue reading “From Sea to Table to You”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":58,"featured_media":0,"parent":10853,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"yoast_head":"\nFrom Sea to Table to You - Coastwatch<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ncseagrant.ncsu.edu\/coastwatch\/previous-issues\/2019-2\/spring-2019\/from-sea-to-table-to-you\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"From Sea to Table to You - Coastwatch\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Farm-to-table has been having a moment \u2014\u00a0but now “sea-to-table” is, too. 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