{"id":25704,"date":"2024-06-30T12:59:24","date_gmt":"2024-06-30T16:59:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ncseagrant.ncsu.edu\/coastwatch\/?p=25704"},"modified":"2024-08-06T11:30:27","modified_gmt":"2024-08-06T15:30:27","slug":"summer-2024-catching-up-with-john-mallette","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ncseagrant.ncsu.edu\/coastwatch\/summer-2024-catching-up-with-john-mallette\/","title":{"rendered":"Catching up with John Mallette"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n\n\n\n
\"image:<\/a>
John Mallette is a fisher, charter boat captain, and seafood business owner. Credit: Barbara Garrity-Blake\/NC Catch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cAs long as I was around a boat and I was on the water, I really didn\u2019t care about anything else.\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Good luck catching up with John Mallette. He\u2019s all over the map, literally. If he\u2019s not out captaining a charter boat or fishing commercially, he\u2019s likely making seafood deliveries along the coast. When we chatted in early April, he had a day of deliveries ahead of him, from New Bern to the Triangle. And the next day, he\u2019d head down to Charleston, South Carolina, to continue his deliveries, all before cooking for a large dinner party two days later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s hard to document what a typical day looks like for Mallette. The co-owner of Southern Breeze Seafood<\/a> wears many hats. Since he opened the company four years ago in Jacksonville, he and his co-owner, Randy Millis \u2013 a fifth generation commercial fisherman as well as a lifelong friend \u2013 have specialized in selling fresh, sustainably-caught seafood and related products (like breaders and seasonings) to wholesalers and directly to customers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mallette also has embarked on a project alongside Barbara Garrity-Blake \u2013 a cultural anthropologist who teaches marine fisheries policy at Duke University\u2019s Marine Laboratory<\/a> \u2013 to highlight the rich history of African American contributions to North Carolina\u2019s seafood industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Garrity-Blake, who serves as chair of the board of directors for NC Catch<\/a>, the stereotypical fisher as an older white man in yellow rain gear obscures how so many different people have influenced the industry \u2013 working on boats, owning and operating restaurants, and more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Southern Breeze Seafood specializes in selling fresh, sustainably-caught seafood and related products, like these custom-blend seasonings. Credit: Southern Breeze Seafood.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Storytelling in Fishing Communities<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u201cJohn Mallette is the reason for this project,\u201d says Garrity-Blake.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The two met at a festival in Morehead City, where Mallette was doing a fish cutting demonstration. Together, they devised their project, which the Community Collaborative Research Grant (CCRG)<\/a> program supports. North Carolina Sea Grant \u2013 in partnership with the North Carolina Water Resources Research Institute<\/a> and the Kenan Institute for Engineering, Technology & Science<\/a> \u2013 provides the program, which facilitates collaboration between researchers and local knowledge experts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mallette says others have approached him about similar projects in the past, but he had always turned them down. To him, what separated Garrity-Blake\u2019s project from the rest was a focus on storytelling as a means of interacting with participants and gathering information. This approach placed emphasis on providing context rather than extracting and isolating data in a traditionally-academic project.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI wanted this to be truly a collaborative approach,\u201d says Garrity-Blake. \u201cAnd I wanted to honor the storytelling traditions that are so important not only within African American communities but the fishing communities.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mallette\u2019s own story is an anomaly in many ways. He\u2019s a Black man with decades of experience in the seafood industry, which he wound up in by chance when he was a child. Growing up along the coast in Ocean City, he didn\u2019t have family in the business, but his babysitter and her husband owned a seafood market and tackle shop, where they introduced him to the arts of shrimping and crabbing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"image:<\/a>
 In 1949, Ocean City became the first coastal area in North Carolina where Black residents could vacation and purchase property. Credit: Ocean City Beach Citizens Council.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

And he had quite a knack for it, earning the nickname \u201cFish Man\u201d as a young kid. \u201cAs long as I was around a boat and I was on the water,\u201d he says, \u201cI really didn\u2019t care about anything else.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Childhood fun blossomed into a career that took him up and down the East Coast and eventually around the globe. He ran multi-million-dollar sport fishing boats for tournaments and chartered boats from Central and South America to Hawaii \u2013 and even into the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Since moving back to North Carolina in 2008, Mallette has fished and chartered boats but now works most often on the commercial side of the seafood industry. He sells retail and wholesale and recently signed a deal with Aramark \u2013 a food service and facilities services provider \u2013 to bring Southern Breeze Seafood\u2019s food products into university cafeterias across North Carolina, Maryland, and Virginia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Challenging Assumptions and \u201cStraight-up Lies\u201d<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Mallette says many people know too little about the fish they\u2019re eating, like where it comes from and how it was harvested. This lack of information is often coupled with what he calls \u201cstraight-up lies\u201d about seafood, something he has no problem pointing out: \u201cI only want to call out misinformation. I don\u2019t care if you like it or not, I\u2019m just telling you how it is.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

His work with the North Carolina Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services<\/a>, including their Got to Be NC<\/a> initiative \u2013 which promotes North Carolina grown and harvested agriculture and seafood \u2013 helps combat this misinformation. He often leads \u201cpop-ups\u201d and cooking demonstrations, teaching people about local, sustainable seafood available through North Carolina businesses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"image:<\/a>
Growing up along the coast in Ocean City, John Mallette didn\u2019t have family in the business, but his babysitter and her husband owned a seafood market and tackle shop. Credit: NC Catch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Unfortunately, a lot of these events take place only on the coast, not always reaching a diverse audience. According to the North Carolina Office of State Budget and Management<\/a>, African Americans make up only about 15% of the total population of North Carolina\u2019s 20 counties bordering the Atlantic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This shouldn\u2019t come as a surprise. African Americans in North Carolina couldn\u2019t own oceanfront property until 1949, when the Ocean City community became the first coastal area in North Carolina where Black residents could vacation and purchase property. Mallette\u2019s father was an initial developer of Ocean City and belonged to one of the first families to settle there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Given North Carolina\u2019s past, what would project participants tell Garrity-Blake and Mallette about barriers to entry for fishers, wholesalers, and others in the seafood industry? What particular challenges and obstacles have Mallette and other African Americans faced?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mallette can draw on examples of buyers not wanting to buy his fish specifically or trying to \u201cplay me like I\u2019m dumb or not as good,\u201d something he believes might or might not have to do with his race. But, he explains, \u201cthere\u2019s so much more to the exclusivity\u201d beyond these interactions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Garrity-Blake and Mallette interviewed participants, the information pointed to overtly race-based challenges and barriers \u2013 but not resoundingly. Instead, the interviews found something more covert.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mallette told me that he had never known an instance when a person with the necessary skills \u2013 no matter their race \u2013 was denied a job in the industry. But obtaining those skills was not always possible for Black residents.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"image:<\/a>
Tyrone Hightower worked as a veterinary assistant for over 20 years before shifting careers into the seafood industry. Credit: Barbara Garrity-Blake.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Mallette says a particular stereotype also has confounded the problem: the unsuitability of African Americans to swimming and other water activities. On one hand, this stereotype makes him laugh, but he knows its impact.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe grandmas used to always say, \u2018Boy, don\u2019t you get on that water. You know that ain\u2019t for us.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission<\/a>, two-thirds of Black children, \u201chave no or low swimming ability.\u201d This doesn\u2019t reflect any actual aptitude for swimming, but as Mallette and his peers learned dissuading messages about all aquatic activities, their access to Black fishers, mariners, and others was limited at best.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt was like, if you didn’t see it, you would just automatically assume that you don’t do it,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Exposure to the outdoors, he adds, specifically seafood and fishing, can help so many people to develop life skills that promote independence and self-sufficiency.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cEven though I’m only 44 years old, I\u2019ve got people booking charters with me that remember me taking them fishing when they were kids. Now they\u2019re bringing their kids,\u201d he says. \u201cGet this stereotypical fear of water or the outdoors or the woods or anything in general out of their mind, and go try it. And then it would blow their minds, because \u2018I’ve done it,\u2019 you know?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That said, the seafood industry can be \u201cclanish,\u201d according to Mallette. If you don\u2019t know someone, he says, it\u2019s unlikely you\u2019ll buy from or sell to them, because there\u2019s no existing trust between parties.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"image:<\/a>
Tyrone Hightower is the owner of Apex Seafood & Market. Credit: Barbara Garrity-Blake\/NC Catch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tyrone Hightower, who participated in the project, can speak to this. After working as a veterinary assistant for over 20 years, he shifted careers. With his unique knowledge of and experiences with aquatic creatures, he hoped to bring fresh, local seafood to North Carolinians living inland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But with no connections or experience in the industry, it was difficult to source the seafood he wanted to sell to customers. With time \u2013 and the help of a seasoned vendor \u2013 Hightower learned how to use \u201cfisherman’s language\u201d to integrate into the industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Still, he faces unique challenges as an African American seafood seller, sometimes noticing higher prices when he sources seafood compared to his white counterparts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hightower told NC Catch that, \u201cthere\u2019s not a lot of faces that look like mine in the seafood industry,\u201d but seeing prominent people like Mallette has helped remind him he\u2019s not alone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Mallette (right) sells seafood to chefs like James Beard Award winner Ricky Moore (left) and James Beard Award semi-finalist Jamie Davis (middle). Credit: NC Catch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Reaching People Through Their Stomachs<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Mallette juxtaposed the experiences of consumers in predominantly white and Black communities in Wilmington: People in white communities often have immediate access to fresh, local shrimp, tuna, and other seafood in their seafood markets and grocery stores, whereas people in African American communities are sold imported seafood, like croaker, that\u2019s often mislabeled as local.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He and Garrity-Blake say this \u201cgastroeconomical racism\u201d highlights the inequities that people of color face in accessing fresher, healthier foods \u2013 as well as information about these products. \u201cFood deserts,\u201d areas without easy access to fresh and nutritious foods, are symptomatic of gastroeconomical racism.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But why should anyone have to settle for imported products shipped halfway across the world when North Carolina can offer a fresher alternative?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBecause there\u2019s no education to that demographic of people buying the seafood,\u201d says Mallette. \u201cThey don\u2019t know any better.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He and Garrity-Blake hope to teach the next generation the importance of local, sustainable seafood options. And there are countless fishers, seafood buyers and sellers, chefs, and others who \u2013 with a platform to tell their stories and speak to their successes \u2013 can show Black youth that the seafood industry is accessible to them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Established in 2011, NC Catch, in partnership with the state’s local Catch groups, strengthens the North Carolina seafood economy through promotion and education. Credit: NC Catch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Mallette and Garrity-Blake\u2019s project already has collected and transcribed oral histories, which will become an exhibit at the Core Sound Waterfowl Museum<\/a> in Harkers Island. But they also want to take this exhibit on the road.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIf we really want to make a difference and help foster empathy,\u201d says Garrity-Blake, \u201cwe have to take it to the people.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Through public events spotlighting their exhibit, Garrity-Blake and Mallette hope to break bread, both literally and figuratively, at events across the state, hosting panelists who share stories about their experiences as Black fishers, seafood dealers, and more. Panelists will include key figures in the industry, like chef Jamie Davis of The Hackney<\/a> in Washington and chef and restaurant owner Ricky Moore of Saltbox Seafood Joint<\/a> in Durham, who will engage audiences through cooking demonstrations and other activities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cMy personal goal is to make lasting impressions,\u201d Mallette says. He plans to speak at North Carolina Central University \u2013 just one of the many universities that will use his breaders and other fresh products. The university\u2019s executive chef wants Mallete to directly educate students about sustainable seafood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Mallette reels in college students, Garrity-Blake next will be interviewing an African American husband and wife crabbing team from Hertford, a couple that Mallette introduced to her. \u201cI love the blood, sweat, and tears that people put into commercial fishing,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Not surprisingly, both Garrity-Blake and Mallete are seafood lovers, too. For her, a charcoal mullet grilled scale-side down does the trick, and \u201cthe oilier, the better.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Mallette, it\u2019s old school shrimp and grits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cPan fry your shrimp, make a gravy with the grease, and top it with some cheese and butter,\u201d he says. \u201cI could eat that every day and twice on Sundays!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

More<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Learn more about the Community Collaborative Research Grants program<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Learn more about NC Catch\u2019s<\/a> Chef Ambassadors<\/a> and NC Catch’s coverage of this project: \u201cRecognizing African American Participation in the North Carolina Seafood Industry.\u201d<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Learn more about the history of Ocean City<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n


One of the goals of Barbara Garrity-Blake and John Mallette\u2019s Community Collaborative Research Grant project is to bring more visitors to NC’s African American-owned and\/or operated businesses, like these :<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Apex
\u25cf Apex Seafood & Market<\/a>
\u25cf The Fish House Eatery<\/a>
\u25cf The Fish House Seafood Market<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Asheville
\u25cf Good Hot Fish<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Carolina Beach
\u25cf Soul Flavor<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cary
\u25cf Skrimp Shack<\/a>
\u25cf TrySeaFood<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Charlotte
\u25cf Bryant Seafood Market<\/a>
\u25cf Freshwaters Restaurant<\/a>
\u25cf Jimmy Pearls<\/a>
\u25cf LuLu\u2019s<\/a>
\u25cf Mr 3\u2019s Crab Pot<\/a>
\u25cf Skrimp Shack<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Durham
\u25cf Bull City Eatery<\/a>
\u25cf J&J Fish & Chicken<\/a>
\u25cf Saltbox Seafood Joint<\/a>
\u25cf Sho Nuff Seafood<\/a>
\u25cf Skrimp Shack<\/a>
\u25cf T-N-T Fish & Chicken<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fayetteville
\u25cf Krab Kingz<\/a>
\u25cf NY Supreme Steamers Seafood Market<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Freeman
\u25cf Livingston Creek Farmers Harvest<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Greensboro
\u25cf Seafood Destiny<\/a>
\u25cf 42 Fry<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Greenville
\u25cf 42 Fry<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Harkers Island
\u25cf Oysters Carolina<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Havelock
\u25cf Te’Asha’s Kitchen & Grill<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

High Point
\u25cf Harbor One<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Holly Springs
\u25cf Skrimp Shack<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jacksonville
\u25cf Southern Breeze Seafood<\/a>
\u25cf The Spot Florida Style Seafood<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mooresville
\u25cf Buddy\u2019s Seafood Market<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ocean Isle
\u25cf Vaught’s Seafood<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Raleigh
\u25cf Baton Rouge Cuisine<\/a>
\u25cf Capital Seafood Market<\/a>
\u25cf Jack\u2019s Seafood and Soul Food<\/a>
\u25cf Oak City Fish & Chips<\/a>
\u25cf Sarge\u2019s Shrimp and Grits<\/a>
\u25cf The Shrimp Truck<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Winston-Salem
\u25cf Forsyth Seafood Market & Caf\u00e9<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wilmington
\u25cf Catch<\/a>
\u25cf On Thyme Restaurant<\/a>
\u25cf Smokin\u2019 Jimmies Chicken & Seafood<\/a>
\u25cf Truck’s Chicken ‘n Fish<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Carrie Clower <\/strong>is a contributing editor for <\/em>Coastwatch and a science communicator for North Carolina Sea Grant. She holds an M.A. in communication studies from The University of Alabama.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

FROM THE SUMMER 2024 ISSUE<\/a><\/strong><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Good luck catching up with John Mallette. He\u2019s all over the map, literally.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":77,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"ncst_custom_author":"","ncst_show_custom_author":false,"ncst_dynamicHeaderBlockName":"ncst\/default-post-header","ncst_dynamicHeaderData":"{\"displayCategoryID\":1546,\"showAuthor\":true,\"showDate\":true,\"showFeaturedVideo\":false,\"subtitle\":\"The Untold Stories of African Americans in North Carolina\u2019s Seafood Industry<\/strong>\"}","ncst_content_audit_freq":"","ncst_content_audit_date":"","ncst_content_audit_display":false,"ncst_backToTopFlag":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[600,1547,595,1546],"tags":[],"_ncst_magazine_issue":[],"class_list":["post-25704","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-coastal-cultures-and-histories","category-healthy-ecosystems","category-seafood","category-summer-2024"],"displayCategory":{"term_id":1546,"name":"Summer 2024","slug":"summer-2024","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":1547,"taxonomy":"category","description":"","parent":632,"count":13,"filter":"raw"},"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCatching up with John Mallette - 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